Gzatsk 1813 massive defensive battle, alternate Borodino on a wider better battlefield, in 1813. What if!!!
it will take the whole available space 4.5m long on three tables, totaling 2.95 m deep. 18km by nearly 12!
this layer features most of the big solig level 2 heights. Fortunatelly it happens that I could recyble many of the Wagram "heights" with a bit of added depth. Only one big 120x 60cm was to cut. It all goes under the mat so precision is not needed..and ...
and... the Swedes had Gustavus and more but more significantly to me now they sell Kinetic sand. It stays up, does not make a mess and is most useful for redoubts, finishing the sides of a hill, the approach of a bridge you name it. I will do a feature on it.
her it goes. With sculpted and painted balsa bits bought from Timecast, plus sticks to maintain the thing up, stuck behind the sand ad you know redoubts need support behind the earth. Actually I should not have angled the balsa so much.
Put the felt mat on it, then add rivers. the beauty of my flat plastic rivers; I can do junctions everywhere I want. Ideally I could even put them into suitable lower dents in the polystyrene but that was too much job and makes the tile less multi use.
I use chalk to write on the felt (it is even easier on fabric mats. the harder part was to find the right coloured chalks a half success so far. Some greenish one to mark the woods. I also use some funny material for woods zone on one off battles but here they had to be as much as possible following the map.
Chalk can be more or less easily dusted/ brushed off. I also use the better stuff which is real earth, thin with little rocks (sand for cement) in it. On the felt taking it off needs two people not to waste too much of the stuff and limit the amount of mess on the floor. As for this I was start alone, better mostly use the less sriking chalk.
Some of the dozens of flocked hils I have are 30 years old! Most resist adamantly being hidden under the felt mat sticking to it and losing some cover in protest. So they often end up on top even if distract with the colours unity.
surprisingly made of trees; done as discribed elsewhere on this site, with lichens and clumps from Woodland scenics, plus some trunks (twigs) and scatter gathered from presious terrain or flocking mess. Plus some real rocks.
Even managed to squeeze in some of my newly made marshes and some of the magnificent Timecast ones. On the North side trusting partly the 1941 map, which also explains why a further northern approach by the French would be too difficult.
One or two houses with fences and a bit of a garden 600m c 400m which includes the 150m all around that would be the firing zone ogf guys inside. I assume in the game system no one would go there unless assaultin the stuff. No firefight against villages, no.
A bit of thinking as to where to put them. I calculated at Borodino all in all they had "12 length of works" counting Shevardino and the great redoubt as two each. Here I assume they had more time, more material, some more stuff which consists of redoubts, breasworks, abattis and fortifying villages.
The ground is not flat I use crests to mark some cover and the slight changes of slopes. idea taken from Bob Mackenzie's Web Page.
they uare my "level one" thing. or the change of slope crest on top of a hill if needed. I mark fortified/prepared villages with sand (earth) on walls, and barricades. they give better cover and resist better fire and battering.
done at the end of the center woods to slow down and guard the deployment of French on the main road. Also would act as a strong "bell ringing" for the Russians who have no line of sight there if the French really pushes on. To be maned by good Jaegers. And a bit of my earth and sand road.
and the numbered labels for hills, villages (which often have actual names written but not this time) and woods, for ease of orders in case they have to be written and for orientation. another redoubt made from a gabion battery position sold by Wargamer.pl with added sand, making it fit a rouded top.