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PAINTING AND TERRAIN MAKING
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ABATTIS

Made from twiggs stuck on a piece of felt. Will be taken in picture to multiply!

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TREE FACTORY

two methods:
1  HOLE 
with those which have a decent tail to plug in. Cut it to size then pierce a hole in hard card/ plasticard/ MDf if you have the tools.

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2 PIN

Force the cut trunk (only works if wide enough) on a pin with a flat back, then stick the pin on its support.
My single trees are on MDF bases or were on  old coins.

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Assembly line.

From these Ebay Chinese sellers. Unbeatable prices. 
or this one

This 
uk shop 
has great quality and service, to add variety.

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GROUND 1

Paint the ground in brownish colours. It will be partly covered with earth and stuff.
Edges in dark brown.

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GROUND 2

I use on all bases (figures and terrain) a thick, irregular layer of ceiling cement (can be any thickish water based).

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SPREADING

Spread on it thin earth, little stones, twigs and anything that would make sense.
The earth will tint the cement.

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MORE SPREADING

Underbrush can go if light. Otherwise best stuck with proper cement. mix for variety. Woodland Scenics products unvaluable for that.

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Shown in progress. the edges will be at the end to mask any mishap.
Hand paint various shades and spray some trees to add variety.

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Stuck bushes, cement/ paste spreading.

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A multiple base done.
if you play with large woods (think America or Russia?) to save time setting up, multiple bases!

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A table with a few woods.

To see bigger pics, right click "view picture"

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RIVERS

I have nice commercial rivers but they need bushy banks to diminish the fact that the thing is rather high for the  15-10mm figures. A canal?

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Cheap+++

The basic material I use for these rivers and lakes and marshes that are level with the surrouninding terrain: blue or green plastic holders that can (increasingly hard) be found in supermarkets. And a gloss gel for paints, .

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Chain production

Cut in shape dozens of length, beware to have the proper same section for connecting. best to keep on the side the "master" sized connector to compare. Actually little discrepancies can be hidden by offsetting the connection to an angle.

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Spread and more spreading

I don't cover the plastic but put little waves on it keeping in mind where I want the current flowing.
The gel idea came from him.

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Fast and easy

Dozens of length, connecting rivers, different sizes, all is possible. You spread the gel, and next day it is dry.

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Yes I have a big table

One of the beauty of it, if you don't paind the sides, any bit can connect into any other. It starts whitish but dries transparent. Meters and meters of it....

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Not just rivers

Sometimes the hardest part is to find more of the plastic sheets, of the same colours;)
Lakes and marshes can use the same way. But I found out that marshes with the cement used to stick, bend, so best put on a painted plasticard base.

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But...

I can see this from my workshop seat...And whatever the sky, it obstinately never wants to be blue. Maybe one day I will find grey plastic.
If you want to add, tiny touches of white to the waves, by drybrushing, can make it a faster sream. Gloss varnish can be added too.

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All for this

With or without bushes and poplars on the sides here it goes. It needs be stored flat, nicely, not to be bent. 
I experimented in painting underneath to add depth effects. Found out it was trouble for very little. This river can also fit any terrain underneath, arid or green.

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