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Of travels
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Various fun

Visiting Austria with a particuliar (strangely?) aim for Wagram.

La Fère Champenoise is not just there...it is there too.

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Historical research and battle fields

1870 Gravelotte
Kulikovo




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Museums

ST Petersburg... +Arsenal Wein, +Yekaterinburg  

AUSTRIA  OCT. 2019.

Driving through south western Germany to reach Wien and Wagram! So much to see an the ways.
I loved it but was...right disappointed with Wagram battlefield. 
The Aspern/ Lobau part is nearly zero covered with new constructions. Overall nearly nothing is marked,kept; obviously the Austrians not much interested in this. Towards the Russbach part of the field, the surroundings still give an idea of the grounds. 

Austria is very nice, beautiful little towns, mountains, and a number of beautiful castles.

To do the whole for a good wargamer, you need 8-10 days. 
This Austrian officer welcomes you in the small Wagram museum (private/no public state stuff at all).

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Wagram mueseum

A mobile forge. One day on my table too. 

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Artillery bus;)

Strange 12lb(?) lashed; and what looks like a cart to carry the crew. Austrians comfort.

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Logistics

Would my Blue moon Austrian logistical tail look like this?

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Flat but...

A glimpse of the field from Aspern. Mostly flat but driving says you can occasionally escape the grande battery.

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La grainerie, Essling.

At least this one is still there and impressive. kept as a breeding farm. 

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Impregnable door with bullets impacts.

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Reincarnated hussar horses around. Would not reach the other side...

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...In case they'd still be there assaulting...

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From Aderklaa...

You, as an exhausted saxon bicorned infantryman, can see the Austrian masses coming to retake it from you?

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The Russbach

Game wise, the most useful part and intriguing bit of the visit: everywhere the little river is quite an obstacle and lined with trees and bush that will impede distant visibility through it. Here from French positions.

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Austrian redoubt

On the height (the Wagram) above the Russbach, a few 100m behind, effectively hidden from the flatland, here the irregularity and open ground told of a former hasty work.

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Markgrafneusiedel tower

...heights behind the village, you can see far above to the right wing of the French; useful.

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...like this

and it carries on to the left( as seen from Austrian positions), but with a complicated ups and downs and no clear artillery positions

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(ex!) floating mill on Danube

Like those sent to break the bridge at Essling... now out of reach, half salvaged from grounding.

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>Boat, traditional

Possibly already used back then; can imagine them commandeered to cross troops.

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An der schönen blauen Donau...

as seen by Reynier's covering guns?

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Sacile

I went to ALL possible flat figures dios/ museums I knew be on the way;) here the Kazeldorf one.

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Andreas Hofer

Inspiration for Sharp Practice. next time will go to Innsbrück and more;). Imagine having to paint  80 Bavarian skirmishers?

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And castles...

Here Salzburg. A pretty gem...even with bad weather.

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Fairy tales

...in the mountains.

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Arsenal

The wargamer's gem in Wien. The army history museum. 

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They greet you

All those names in books....
From my ancestors most favorite enemies;)

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Habsburg mugnificence.

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...and more

This museum is huge; with only 4 hours I did not manage to have the artillery hall and the Panzer hall.         

     Back to top           

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La Fère Champenoise is not just there

In 1814 Bashkirs came from this kind of space, were in France and so much enjoyed this victory and possibly the "wealth" they grabbed thereafter...

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...that they came home and created a village.

and...named it Ferechampenoise.
me in front of the road sign. Nothing to see, just a normal village, not worth another hour of driving;)

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not very far from the Ural river:

and a bridge that tells you Europe lies on one side Asia on the other.
A bit further is a Cossack field/village called "Death to the French"; 1812 training ground you see ;)

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A pretty well kept area...

compared to the run down aspect of most of rural Russia. The Bashkirs kept their individual homes (and the unsocialist care for them), forcing in collectivism in housing would have got a revolt.

SAINT PETERSBURG FEB 2020

A week in beautiful St Petersburg, not enough as there is so much, especially if, like us, you go beyond the usual tourists spots. We also add several historical flats of soviets (Kirov) and writers etc. A sobering experience for the innocents vs the marxist system in full swing.

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1812 militia

St P. militia flag in Kazan cathedral, near the tomb of Kutusov.

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Then...

More then on our tables, parade 1827 for the tsar.

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For scratch builders.

A model of a tracked armoured Mg in Leningrad siege memorial museum.

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All equals but...

Comrade Kirov's library is his flat. And no he did not share the kitchen with others. He even "exploited" a cook.

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A column of Suvarov

..assaulting Ismael. Zinnfiguren dio in his museum. 
2.5 hours of visit, long chats with the museum guide. 

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Period rapper

In Fabergé museum..

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Gallery of 1812

In Hermitage, full walls of all the generals of 1812. Not too sure if they are in period dress though.

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 Kuirassier 30YW

Austrian pappenheimer... 

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THE ARTILLERY MUSEUM

A truly grand thing. Unfortunately the part on fortresses and engineers of the  17-18th century was in "remont".

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Outside

Scores of artillery pieces from bronze guns to modern soviet gear.

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Guns and guns

Petit mountain howitzer.

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1812+/-

Licornes; the type without horns ;)

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las

bad picture, low lighting and glass cases, of ammunition carts of 1812.

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better

Sideways but did not get properly the forge.

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Transport

1812 GS wagon.

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6 Lb

1/1 scale for a change. No need of painting.

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The dragons droped something on the way.

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Kutusov last bedroom in Bünzlau 1813.

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Inside a shell.

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Some approximate dioramas about Borodino, a famous Russian victory ;)

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1838 katyusha!!!!

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The whole thing.

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Minis;  a couple of dio; not very accurate.

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Taking Kazan for Ivan the great..

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Fire high enough?

A grenadier mitre with bullets holes.

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Siege

A HUGE XVIIth century siege gun.

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Unique volley gun

Probably a prototype.

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XVIIth century bang

to paint my musketeers.

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XVIIth  century...

Cavalry weapons. Good  mine are in 18 mm not to paint all the art !!!

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Petit Shuvalov?

I forgot to check;).

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Fortress carriage Licorne

Never seen before.

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So far...

I strongly resisted having armies of the 16th century despite the temptations. 

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More...

Annoyingly magnificent arquebuses.

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Even more

Plenty in the Artillery museum, in Hermitage.

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Not enough..

Guess what will be  painting more of the By Fire and sword and 30YW troops...

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XIXth century

guns rows; mostly everything is Russian, a few Turkish captured ones..

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1877+

Russian machine gun.

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1877-78

Bronze Russian (big) breech loader.

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Petit cousin

 for mountains...

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Turkish 

Small arms.

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Krupp 4lb

captured Krupp 4lb 

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Krupp encore

kaboom.

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Ulikely place

First saw captured ones in Petropavlosk, that were used as coastal defence ( now decorative).

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La

if you don't believe.

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And...

Scutiny revealed they had with them, Russian made clones 1885.

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Turks the usual enemy

1878 flag.

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Maxim 

1904+++. 

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HUGE

1878+++ coastal guns.

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Side view

You can compare to the fence height ;).

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152

Russo jap war howitzer.

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Plenty...

One of the indoor rows of  WW1 artillery.

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They might even have shot down someone with this...

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WW1 37mm .

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Mortars.

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Two brit WW1 pieces.

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All in the right scale...

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Rows of WW2 guns.

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AA listening station.

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Clearly not something to move away fast.

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Light projector.

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Observation bunker

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Command bunker Stalin line 1941.

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45mm pre war.

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Later version with horse drawn wheels.

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Seems they too had the idea.

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Everything they ever had is there.

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Cold war stuff aplenty but less then in this Ural museum.

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Cashtan...nothing to do with earning on the side of the sunny beach.

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IN THE NAVY

Floating gem: The Aurora.

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Living quarters

They made a good recent restauration job, but a lot we cannot see.

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1905

Bits of fleet to paint yours well.

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More

If you manage Cyrilic letters , you can get the names;).

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The Navy museum!

A big one. This is the first one of 19 rooms.

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First hall from the top 

Did not climb any rope, just been to second partial level;).

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French King's galley

XVIIth century with sweet prisoners rowing. Pre Jean Valjean types.

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Small and big

Not too easy to succeed pictures with glass everywhere.

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A rare model showing studding sails out.

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Plenty of magnificent pictures. Turks providing the victories shown, mostly. Here Athos 1807.
And no it is not a remake or sequel of The three musketeers.

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1806 heroic brig Alexander mauling superior numbers.

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Figureheads alley.

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Things thrown by guns to do various damage to your ship. Moulages.

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More of it; note the bar shot. 

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As if you were inside. Note the deserted dack as in too many 1/700th toys;)

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You are inside a Russian ship battling the Turks. Sinop 1853.

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Then this is the result....

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First Russian monitor.

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First submarine 1881.

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Pompom 40mm.

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10-barrel-gatling-type Colt. 1876

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37mm-5 barrels-Hotchkiss. 1895

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 Amstrong 4 barrel 1875 on cruiser Afrika

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Amstrong 44mm anti torpedo boat gun 1880+

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The BOOM end of a spar torpedo. reckless chaps on small boats coming close to stick this on the side of ships... not a Panzerfaust hey!

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Like these ones. Russians who survived and managed, first time in history to bring their boat back. Action-off-Măcin-1877.

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Măcin-1877-a-bit-afterwards.

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Another type.

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Russo Jap war, several rooms.

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Novik cruiser, I think... Guess what, forgot to label everything;)

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Cut inside ship of this late XIXth century early XXth.

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Rear admiral enseign. 

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Rooms like that...Then ww1.

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Big dreadnought, a room on reconstructing the fleet after Tsuchima..

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Topedo boat.

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Mineslaying.

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Early soviet times.

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WW2 heavy cruiser.

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Could not believe it: river gunboat with paddle wheels.

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Another, maybe coastal too.

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Post war-80s, Gorchkov's navy.

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One of the prettiest ships.

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Plenty of visitors, many young ones.

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Ural...

Popov inventor of radio (receivers?) at least there;).                     

to top 

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KULIKOVO

They are making a museum a bit like Gettysburg, trying to recreate the surroundings as it was in 1380 down to the plants and woods. 

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back in 2014... it was improved since. Bigger.

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Golden horde, heavy and rich.

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Out of Moscow.

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Italian navy museum La Spezia

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Plenty from everywhere

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aie

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A glimpse of the gigantic  military museum near Ekaterinburg.
One third of the outside...

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Main pavillon, another one is near completion.

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The whole thing is mostly WW2 and soviet stuff..

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pumfff.

MARS LA TOUR and GRAVELOTTE

A 2016 pilgrimage in the sun (35+ c)

I went first to the museum in Gravelotte, thinking innocently they would have loads of things to visit the fields. NIB..nada. A typical modern French museum, not bad but nearly excusing itself to be about war. It is not just about the battle. At least I read a lot, had a map provided by Bruce Weigle, the Geoportail map from @ 1880+, one of German artillery positions, a compass, and an ancestor who was there. (he did not help though).

The next big help came from the German veterans who at the end of the XIXth century nicely put markers (DENKMAHL) everywhere their units was suffering. A bit like in Gettysburg. Of course nothing about the French, the place being in the Westmark of the2nd Reich for a while.

Overall you can see a lot, and understand what they could se and figure out or not of the mess. The place has not been covered by modern developments or sabotaged. So I spent 6+ hours driving, walking, looking taking pictures, braving the heat whistling German marches. (few good ones from the period, mostly afterwards). the few youngsters around from the villages, no doubt thinking I was slightly mad, unless they already had this type of alien before. I made the mistake of not taking enough notes and labelling only part of the picture too late.

The fields would have been smaller than now; on 1950 aerial pics, you get the long vegetable plots from the houses outwards.

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